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Bhutan - Land of the Thunder Dragon
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Journey into the Heart & Soul of Bhutan
Fall 2010! Early registration critical for this journey
Led by: Dr. Sheri Rosenthal
Author of The Complete Idiot's Guide to Toltec Wisdom, Banish Mind Spam! &
WITH Forgiveness - Are You Ready? |
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Not many people have actually heard about Bhutan; The Land of the Thunder Dragon, or even know where it is located. For many years this little country about the size of Switzerland has been off limits of foreigners. If you look at a map you will find Bhutan to be east of Nepal at the same latitude, with a tiny piece of India separating the two countries – and the northern edge touching the Himalayas. You must realize that Bhutan is not like any place you are likely to travel to. Perhaps we can say that it is a bit in the past but very conscious of the present.
The people are Tantric Buddhists who also have a Shamanistic background called Bon - and a fantastic history filled with legends and mythology. They are a grounded people and many of them speak English and are well educated.
The monasteries are magical and beautiful in ways that I cannot begin to describe and everyone who goes to this country is touched in the most astonishing ways. By the time folks leave the country, the experience has managed to open their hearts in a manner that that is totally unexpected. As part of our journey the Lamas will be preparing a special prayer ceremony for us.
Although the latitude is that of Florida, the elevation of the country is what creates the fantastic landscapes. That in combination with the unusual architecture, makes this is an experience not to be missed. The Bhutanese culture is so traditional, interesting and different from ours in the west. Thankfully we will have the opportunity to spend a day at Thangbi Mani, one of the annual religious dance festivals, to immerse ourselves in ancient tradition. On our last two nights we will be staying at the incredible Uma Paro Resort which is beautiful and restful - a proper end to our journey. You can have spa services here to relax from our journey and prepare for the long trip home. This is one of those once-in-a-lifetime journeys, and you will not come back the same person you were when you arrived. If there is any way that you can get way for this mystical journey, I encourage you to come!
As is typical for a Journeys of the Spirit retreat, you will experience class time daily, time for sharing with the group, reflection and meditation time, and one-on-one personal time with your group leader (along with fun and shopping time too of course!). It is our intent that you return home with an open heart and mind along with the tools you need to make the changes in your life you desire.
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Day 0-2 Oct 7th-9th
Most folks will be leaving October 7th or 8th and will meet in Bangkok October 8th or 9th in the evening. Depending on where you live, you may need to leave on October 7th to make the flight to Bangkok. When you take the transpacific flight from the west coast of the U.S. to Bangkok, you lose a day when you cross the international dateline. Don't worry. You get the day back when you fly home! We will stay overnight at the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel (approximately $142.00 USD for a double room) near the new Bangkok airport (BKK) and wake up early for our flight on Druk airlines to Paro, Bhutan at ~6:50am.
Day 3 Oct 10th (-,l,d) Bangkok to Paro (altitude: 7,400 feet)
We’ll gather in the hotel lobby in the early morning and, as a group, proceed to the airport to check in with Druk Air. If we are lucky, we’ll have glorious views of the snow capped Himalayas. On its way to Paro, Druk Air flies over eight of the ten tallest peaks of the world including Mt. Everest and Kanchenjunga. The remarkable and steep descent into the Paro Valley is an awe-inspiring beginning to our adventure. Already you can feel the pace of life slow down.
After visa formalities and collection of baggage, we’ll check into our nearby hotel in Paro where we will spend the first night. In the afternoon, we will visit to the impressive Ta Dzong, the watchtower of the Paro Dzong which now houses the National Museum. The museum is an important center for the preservation of Bhutanese artifacts, culture and history. It contains marvelous and colorful collections of traditional handicrafts, ancient weapons, religious costumes, thangkhas, stamps, and even a gallery of stuffed animals.
After the Museum, we will visit the Rinpung Dzong (the full name of the Paro Dzong), which means “the fortress of the heap of jewels.” This complex houses the administrative and religious headquarters for the Paro district. A part of Bernardo Bertolucci’s movie, “Little Buddha,” was filmed inside this dzong.
Day 4 Oct 11th (b,l,d) Punakha (altitude: 5,500 feet)
After a beautiful drive through the terraced landscape, river valleys, traditional Bhutanese architecture and chortens (domed monument) we reach Simtokha Dzong, the oldest Dzong in Bhutan (built in 1629). From here, the road winds through pine forests and small villages, and passes by more chortens and prayer flags before heading up to Dochula Pass (10,000'), the first of four passes of the trip. The prayer flags on mountain slopes, bridges and high passes, transmit prayers to the Gods and keep up a constant communication with the heavens.
For the next two hours of drive, the road slowly descends into the lowlands of Punakha Valley. In the village of Lobesa, we see Chimmi Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to Drukpa Kuenley, who as a favorite saint of the Bhutanese people is known affectionately as "the Divine Madman". The temple is on a hillside in the middle of rice fields and has become a pilgrimage site for childless couples.
Day 5 Oct 12th (b,l,d) Punakha/Wangdi Valleys (altitude: 5,500 feet)
This morning we will visit the Punakha Dzong, the “Palace of Great Happiness” built in 1647 by Shabdrung Nawang Namgyel, the man who unified Bhutan. The Dzong lies between the Fo Chu (male river) and the Mo Chu (female river), and is the winter home of the Central Monk Body. It is believed that the Mo Chu and the Fo Chu were once lovers, flowing in the same bed. One evening, after a quarrel, the Mo Chu left silently during the night, moving to the next valley. Ever since, the Fo Chu has been rushing down to the confluence, trying to catch his estranged lover.
When the Shabdrung arrived in Punakha, he set up a camp at the confluence of the two rivers and that very night had a dream in which he heard the prophecy of Guru Rinpoche, the second Buddha and the founder of Tantric Buddhism. He then built a Dzong on that spot and placed the Rangjung Kharsapani there, the most sacred relic that he brought with him from his monastery in Tibet.
A devastating flash flood in 1994 washed away a major part of the Dzong. His Majesty the King personally supervised the reconstruction of the Dzong, a project that has occupied thousands of skilled craftsmen and builders during the past twelve years. The results of the restoration are amazing. You will be seeing the most magnificent architectural and artistic masterpiece in the Kingdom, just consecrated in an elaborate ceremony in May of 2003.
After lunch, we will enjoy a beautiful optional hike to Khamsum Yuley Lhakhang, through paddy fields and past traditional farmhouses. A visit here is a good introduction to Tantric Buddhism in all its complexities. It contains some of the best Tantric art in Bhutan, and a visit there will serve as a balance to the more traditional Buddhist statuary and wall painting visible at the Punakha Dzong. The shapes and forms of the Tantric statues may surprise most visitors. The terrifying divinities are manifestations of peaceful gods, which assume these forms to subdue evil spirits that are hostile to Buddhist doctrine. The nudity of most of the deities show that this world’s conventions are of no importance on higher planes, and the persons being crushed by the wrathful deities are either spirits hostile to Buddhism or primordial negative concepts such as ignorance, jealousy and anger. In Tantric Buddhism, numerous statues and paintings are also in the form of sexual union, which represents the union of knowledge and wisdom that permits the attainment of sublime state of enlightenment.
After the hike, we will return to our hotel.
Day 6 Oct 13th (b,l,d) Jakar/Bumthang (altitude: 8,500 feet)
A driving day with extraordinary views! Our drive to Bumthang will take us over the Pelela (10,825 feet) and Yutongla (11,200 feet) passes, through beautiful forests of rhododendron and fields of dwarf bamboo, beautiful valleys, thick forests, and past the district of Tongsa. Near the passes we are likely to see yaks, as they live only in high altitudes. Before reaching Tongsa, we’ll drive past the 18th century Chendebji Chorten, a whitewashed stone chorten (or stupa) built in order to nail into the ground a demon who had been terrorizing the inhabitants of the valley. The first sight of the Tongsa Dzong ( a “dzong” is a fortress), the largest in Bhutan, is from across the valley. But the road winds another 12.5 miles before we’ll actually get there. Magnificent views around every turn! We’ll continue our drive east to Jakar.
Day 7-8 Oct 14th-15th (b,l,d) Bumthang Valleys (altitude: 8,500 feet)
The Bumthang region is composed of four valleys, and we will be staying in Jakar, the central village of the district. This area is known for its “Yathra” weaving. Yathra is the name for the colorful, hand-woven woolen cloth (often with geometric designs) that is produced in this region. Bumthang is one of the most beautiful and sacred areas of Bhutan, known for the visits of Guru Rinpoche (the Second Buddha) when he was bringing Buddhism to Tibet and Bhutan in the 8th century. The open and wide valleys filled with fields and farmers, and the gentle slopes of beautiful mountains dotted with many sacred temples and monasteries, make for an unforgettable experience.
We will begin with a visit to Membar Tso (burning lake), one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in Bhutan. Here in the 15th century, Pema Lingpa, one of the great Tertons “Discoverers of Hidden Treasures" of Tantric Buddhism, jumped into the lake with a lighted lamp, and after a couple of hours emerged back with the lamp still burning holding a statue and a treasure chest containing Tantric Buddhist sacred texts. The lake became known as Membar Tso or burning lake. It's a great pilgrimage site, visitors make wishes, say special prayers and float small lighted lamps on the water. We will all have a chance to make our own wishes, say our own prayers and float lighted lamps.
After Membar Tso, we will spend a day at Thangbi Mani, the annual religious dance festival that takes place in the small and beautiful village of Thangbi. Elaborate, spellbinding masked dances at the festival are performed by specially trained monks. From the roof of the temple, monks blow on a pair of long horns, and the sound of cymbals, drums and trumpets fill the air. These dance festivals revive the people spiritually and in many ways refine them culturally because the dances communicate moral lessons, and both the performer and the observer benefit from the exchange. The Bardo dances, the main event of the festival, serve as a reminder to people of their future destiny depending on their past and present deeds. The dance of Noblemen and Ladies tells the story of flirting princesses who are punished for their indiscretions. The dance of the Stag enacts the tale of a hunter who was converted to Buddhism and gave up hunting.
This festival is also an occasion for seeing people and for being seen. In olden times it provided the most important opportunity for unmarried men and women to find their life partners. People dress in their finest clothes and wear their most precious jewels. Men and women joke and flirt.
Later in the evening, we will visit Tamshing Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to Saint Pema Lingpa and containing some of the oldest wall paintings in Bhutan. We’ll also visit Jambay Lhakhang. According to legend, Jambay Lhakhang was one of the 108 temples built in AD 638, by a Tibetan Buddhist king in order to overcome a giant ogress who laid across regions of the Himalayas in order to prevent the spread of Buddhism. The central figure in the sanctuary is the statue of Jampa, the Buddha of the future. There are also three stone steps inside believed to represent past, present and future. They are slowly sinking into the ground. The faithful say that when all the steps disappear the future Buddha will arrive and we will all gather in Bumthang Valley to receive his teachings.
On our second day, we will have an optional hike to Shukdrag Gompa, an 8th century Buddhis monastery built around Guru Rinpoche's (second Buddha and founder of Tantric Buddhism) meditation cave. On the way we will pass a small hut with a stone grinding wheel, turned by water and used by the local people to grind buckwheat. This is a place for us to be thoroughly “off the beaten track” and probably also to use more film than you ever thought possible in a day. It will be a full day of walking in the countryside and experiencing village life. As we hike through small villages, you will see beautiful traditional farm houses, horses loaded with wares, smiling children, and hard-working farmers. You will gain rare insight into the spirit of the Bhutanese people and have the opportunity to see various activities of the village life. Take time to watch farmers plowing their fields, or stop to talk to farmers working in their fields.
After the hike, we may choose to spend some time to wander in the small town of Jakar on your own or spend some more time at the festival.
Day 9 Oct 16th (b,l,d) Phobjikha Valley (altitude - 9840 feet)
We’ll cross back over the magnificent Yutong La and Pele La passes on our way to Phobjikha, reached by a side road completed in the 1980s.
We’ll stop for lunch in Tongsa and have a chance to visit the famous Dzong. Built in 1647, it is the largest dzong in the country. It is also the ancestral home of the Royal Family, and both the first and second kings ruled the country from Tongsa. The Dzong sits on a narrow spur that sticks out into the gorge of the Mangde-Chu River and overlooks the routes east, west and south. It was built in such a way that in the olden days, it had complete control over all east-west traffic. This helped to augment the strategic importance of the Dzong which eventually placed its Penlop (regional ruler) at the helm of a united country when His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck became the first king of Bhutan. To this day, the Crown Prince of Bhutan becomes the Penlop of Tongsa before ascending the throne, signifying its historical importance.
After visiting the Dzong, we’ll continue our drive to Phobjikha. This hidden valley in the Black Mountains at 9840’, is one of the most beautiful valleys in Bhutan. It is surrounded by mountains with rhododendron, Himalayan pine and dwarf bamboo, which is a favorite food of the Yaks. The famous Gangtey Gompa, the oldest and largest Nyingma Buddhist monastery in Bhutan, is located on a hill overlooking the beautiful valley. Phobjikha is also the chosen winter home of the very rare and endangered black necked cranes. The Cranes arrive around November and stay through March.
We’ll be staying in newly built hotel or a rustic guesthouse (there is no electricity in the valley) that was formerly a traditional Bhutanese home. We may have a chance to experience a Bhutanese “stone bath.” (Rocks heated in a bonfire are put in the water of this “hot tub.”)
Day 10 Oct 17th (b,l,d) Thimphu
This morning we will explore the valley and visit the magnificent Gantey Gompa. The Gompa is directed by Gantey Tulku, the ninth reincarnation (a “tulku” is a reincarnate) of Pema Lingpa. We will visit the courtyard of the Gompa and one of the temples. We may also have a chance to visit with some of the monks who reside in the monastery. A part of the monastery is under renovation.
In the afternoon, we’ll return to the main road and travel west to Thimphu, crossing the Dochula Pass. Once in Thimphu (the only capital city in the world with no traffic lights!), we will settle into one of the centrally located hotels.
Day 11 Oct 18th (b,l,d) Thimphu/Paro
We have almost one full day to explore Thimphu, Bhutan's exotic capital city—a fascinating combination of traditional and contemporary life.
Today, we’ll attend a special prayer ceremony with red-robed monks and a Lama (Buddhist Teacher). Together with the monks we’ll participate in a butter lamp and rice mandala offering. We may also receive an introductory talk on Buddhism and an empowerment or initiation of one of the important Buddhist prayer mantras from the Lama.
During the rest of the day we will hope to visit some of the following key sights (there will be no time for all):
A walk to the Memorial Chorten, a sacred shrine built in honor of the current King’s father. The Chorten is an impressive three-story monument with Tantric statues and wall paintings of three different cycles of Nyingma teachings of Mahayana Buddhism. You will find many elderly people making the Kora (pilgrimage circuit). The ceilings of the small porches on all four sides of the Chorten are painted with Mandalas of different deities.
The weekly vegetable market (only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday), where Thimphu residents mingle with villagers in an interesting urban and rural blend. The market is set up outside in rows under tents and tarps. People come from outlying rural villages to this market to sell vegetables and exotic fruits, & other items including dried fish, chili peppers, spices, tea (in bricks), butter (wrapped in leaves), hats, jewelry, and masks. You will also find all kinds of items that the local people use at home, including ritual and religious objects, and wonderful textiles.
A beautiful hike to Cheri Gompa Meditation Center. Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, the man who unified Bhutan, built this gompa (monastery) in 1619 and established the first monk body in Bhutan at this monastery. A silver chorten (stupa) inside the gompa holds the ashes of the Shabdrung's father. Today, the Gompa is an important place of religious teaching that attracts monks from around the country who come for refresher courses and lo soom chu soom meditation. The one hour hike to Cheri Gompa starts from a picturesque wooden bridge decorated with colorful prayer flags.
Visit few interesting handicraft shops, where they sell masks, beautiful hand-woven textiles, carpets, jewelery and Bhutanese wooden products.
A visit to a Bhutanese Handmade Paper Factory. Handmade paper has been a traditional craft in Bhutan going back into the distant past. The paper is made mainly from the Daphne plant with aipin, a gum obtained from the root of a creeper, as the other major ingredient.
A visit to Mothithang Takin Preserve for a chance to see the takin, Bhutan’s national animal. Takin resembles a cross between a gnu and a musk deer. It has an immense face and a tremendously thick neck.
A Bhutanese Archery Game - Bhutan’s national sport and an integral part of all festivities. The game is played using two painted wooden targets 12”x47” placed at each end of the range which is 120 meters apart. When an arrow hits the target, the archer’s team mates sing and perform a celebratory dance. During major competitions, women dance and sing, extolling their team while teasing and mocking the adversaries with funny comments to make them lose their concentration.
We may also have a chance to experience Bhutan's fascinating weaving culture directly by visiting the home of an expert Bhutanese traditional weaver and designer. You will have the rare opportunity to see some of the best weavers in the country at work and discover how Bhutanese have developed a textile art that is unmatched by anywhere else in the world. In Bhutanese culture and every day life, weaving is so important that practically every home has a loom for weaving. Learn the distinction between “Tsongtham”, pieces woven to be sold commercially, and “Hingtham” or literally “Heart-Woven”, the pieces that are woven by the artisans for their lords or most loved ones. You may also find some young village girls getting trained. In remote villages, young girls begin learning how to weave from their mothers at an early age and become expert weavers at 18 or 19 years of age. You may also have a chance to buy some beautiful pieces of their weaving directly from the weavers.
Day 12 Oct 19th (b,l,d) Paro
After an early breakfast, we will return to Paro for our last night in the Dragon Kingdom.
Upon arrival in Paro, we will conclude our visit to Bhutan with a hike to the magical monastery known as Taktsang (the “Tiger’s Nest). Taktsang is one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in the Himalayan World. The monastery itself is perched on a granite cliff that drops 2,000 feet to the valley floor. The name is derived from a legend that Guru Rinpoche flew across the mountains to this spot on the back of a tigress, reaching a cave in which he meditated for three months, converting the people of Paro Valley to Buddhism during his stay. The path takes us through a forest of oak, blue pine and rhododendron, arriving at a small chorten surrounded by prayer flags. With a little more effort, we will reach a teahouse and a spectacular view of the Taktsang temples. That will be our lunch stop. Those who choose can hike further, to an overlook that is almost at eye level with the temple. After a leisurely hike back, there will be time for last minute shopping and also packing.
Day 13 Oct 20th (b,-,-) Paro to Bangkok
Back to the airport to depart from the Land of the Thunder Dragon and return to Bangkok. Today we leave our hosts and make our way back to the airport and get ready for our flights home. We say our last goodbyes, hugs and kisses as we prepare to take our new dream of heaven back to our lives.
Day 14 Oct 21st (-,-,-) Bangkok to Home
You will cross the dateline again, arriving home on the same day that you leave Bangkok.
This schedule is tentative! Due the remote areas we are traveling to, weather, bad roads and other unseen obstacles may cause us to make changes in the schedule or to visit different sites. We understand that if this happens we were not meant to be where we were going! Also please note we need approximately two-to-three days to fly to Bhutan and one-to-two days to fly home. Make sure you account for these days in your scheduling of this journey.
For example, if you take a flight leaving the USA on Weds October 8th from Los Angeles to Bangkok leaving at noon, you will arrive in Bangkok on October 9th at 11:00pm. You will then overnight in Bangkok and catch the Druk Airlines flight to Paro, Bhutan at 5:50am landing in Bhutan at 9:10am the morning of the 10th when our journey begins. Flying home you will catch Druk airlines flight on October 20th leaving Paro at 10:00am arriving in Bangkok at 5:00pm. You will overnight in Bangkok and catch the international flight in the morning to Los Angeles arriving in the USA in the morning on October 21st (you get your day back here). There are a few late flights that you may be able to take on the 20th that you can check into instead of staying overnight in Bangkok. This set of flights is currently pricing from $1095.00 (with one stop) - $1800.00 (for a non-stop flight on Delta) and $789.00 round trip on Druk Airlines. Some of you may not be taking this set of flights due your location or that you are using frequent flyer mileage (this is a great trip to use mileage on!). You will be responsible for letting us know your information so we can make sure you make the flight to Bhutan. Also you may need to plan to pay for two overnights at our hotel in Bangkok. We did not include that in the trip price because not all folks will be needing an overnight in Bangkok depending on where they are coming from. Some airlines you can use are Delta, EVA, China Air, and Korean Air.
All daily meals are included in this program. These are noted next to each day and are in parentheses. Non-included lunches and dinners during your trip to and from Bhutan may need to be paid for in cash so plan accordingly. All spiritual teachings, all ground transportation, local guides, admission fees to the temples and sites are included. All tips for the drivers, guides, maids and bell boys are included. Other non-included items would be travel insurance, excess baggage charges & airport taxes (~$10.00), beverages (alcohol, water, soda), personal items and souvenir shopping! Your round-trip air flight is not-included in the cost of the journey.
The actual schedule of spiritual teachings and what we will be doing day to day is not published. This is because we teach by channeling spirit which comes in the moment. Every day will be a magical experience for all of us, teachers included! Keep your heart and mind open to the experience life brings us.
Some websites to explore:
Insiders Bhutan
2008 trip cost is $4799.00 double occupancy. A deposit of $500.00 is preferred by: July 1st, 2008. Final payment is due: August 1st, 2008. Any cancellation made in writing from: July 1st - August 1st, 2008 will result in a cancellation fee of $500.00. Any cancellation made after: August 1st, 2008 up to the date of departure will result in total loss of deposit. If you cancel at the time of departure or after the trip departs I will do my best to refund whatever monies are refundable from our tour operator. Please be aware of this and take trip insurance: Trip cancellation insurance is recommended to cover such issues. We reserve the right to cancel the trip if it is not meeting the trip minimum. Single supplement will be $240 USD for the first 8 nights of our journey and $340.00 USD for the last two nights at Uma Paro Resort for a total of $580.00 USD.
Please know that I am happy to create a monthly payment plan for you - if that works better! Just email me and we can charge a specific amount monthly to your credit card.
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Printable Travel Forms & Trip Information
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You may print each form separately, or download all 7 forms at the same time and then print them from your computer. All the documents are in Adobe PDF format. If you don't have Acrobat Reader in your computer (most people do), please go to CLICK HERE to download it. You will find all the information regarding this journey that you could possibly want on these forms. Enjoy!
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These are a few books that I feel will help you prepare for your upcoming journey. Please enjoy these recommendations. If you have any of your own, let me know and I will consider posting them! If you click on the book itself it will link you to Amazon.com.
Having experienced many Spiritual Journeys, it is nice to have all the information you might need before you go! I have included a list of online resources that will prove to be useful as you plan and prepare for your next Spiritual Journey. Simply choose a link from the drop down menu below and the corresponding website will open in its own window making it easy for you to return to this site and continue your exploration.
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