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May gardening checklist
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From knowing what to plant when (and where)
to fertilizing and controlling pests, here's what needs tending to this month.
By Sally Anderson,
* Instant-gratification gardening
* A beginner's guide to flower gardens
* Tired of your yard? Pave it over Gardeners, it's time to test
your mettle. If temperatures are cooperating, the merry, merry month of May
may be your busiest until September, with planning, planting and patio
projects to lead the way into summer. Don't be fooled by a late frost: Find
out the mean freeze date in your area, and be sure soil is warm and workable
-- not too wet, not too dry -- before putting tender plants in the ground.
Bulbs Get those showy summer sprays of color started by planting bulbs of
dahlia, lily, tuberous begonia and gladiolus.
* Plant a few "gladdie" corms every week from now until early July for continuous
summer cuttings.
* As their blooms fade, remove the flowers from tulips and daffodils and give them
a dose of fertilizer. But leave those leaves where they are: They're needed to
produce next year's buds.
* Peonies, too, will be hungry for fertilizer now.
* Got 'mums? From now until the beginning of July, you can make chrysanthemums
bushier and more productive if you pinch 1/2 inch off of each stem when
they're 6 or 7 inches high. Annuals Early in the month, get a jump on flower
planting with hardy annuals such as dianthus, petunia, snapdragon and pansy.
* If another frost threatens to sneak up on you, cover annuals overnight with
thin burlap or newspaper. * Most summer-flowering annuals can also be put in
the ground now.
* Hang mixed baskets of fuchsia, geranium and impatiens when
the evenings warm up, and plant the zinnia, lobelia and marigold in the ground
or in containers.
* When you're safely in the no-frost zone -- probably
midmonth or a bit later -- you can set out those six-packs of seedlings to
harden them off before transplant.
Five tips for starting a beautiful garden that saves water
1-Plan the xeric landscape (xeric-xeros is Greek for dry) as you would if you
were designing a conventional garden. Chose plants that offer color,
texture and shape all through the year. Group plants that need the same amount of water.
2- Prep your soil. This is key for any garden to thrive. Well-drained soil that absorbs
a half-inch of water per hour will help most plants grow at a steady rate. If the
pre-existing soil is either too clay-like or sandy, add organic matter until the
soil is crumbly when you rub it with your fingertips.
3-Install efficient irigation systems before planting, keeping in mind that
the plants closest to the house will need the most water. A drip hose can be
placed above-ground and mulched over or put an inch below soil line and covered with soil.
4- Mulch, mulch, mulch. This step cannot be emphasized enough. Mulching helps
to conserve water, addes slow release-nutrients to the soil and helps suppress
weeds. Organic mulches usually include shredded bark, compost and leaf mold.
5- Water for now. Even plants that eventually will become drought-resistant initially
will need consistant watering until their roots have matured and are adjusted to
there new home. Water an average of 1 inch per week, taking into account rainfall,
at least for the first season.To figure out how long to run your sprinkler, place a
measuring cup in your garden and time how long it takes to reach 1 inch. Water
more when hot less when cool. Some Sages are xeric plants. Follow the same
procedure for xeriscaping that you'd use if you were designing a conventional
garden. This information is attributed to Fran Sorin.
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