So, you want to know more about leather...well, you've come to the right place!

Think about it, don't you agree that leather has a really sensuous lure about it? It's synonymous with luxury, class and culture, yet leather is a durable and practical item. But although it's very durable, the softness of the leather available today is far superior to products found just a few years ago.


Unlike imitation leathers, genuine leather will not become hot or sticky in the summer, nor cold and clammy in the winter. Because leather is a natural material, it breathes, which makes it comfortable all year round.

Image Leathers has many varieties of leather goods to choose from and we want you to know what to expect from your leather purchase, how to keep it clean, and how to store your leather goods properly. If properly taken care of, your leather products should last for many years.

Skins:

Types of Hides:
Finishes:
Conditioning Your Leather:
Cleaning:
General Care:
Storage:

Skins:

First, let's explore a few of the different kinds of skins available in leather products. There are others that aren't listed here, but we wanted to touch on some of the more common ones.

Cowhide:
This is one of the strongest and most durable of all leather for outerwear. As you can tell by its name, this leather comes from the hide of cows. Believe it or not, with proper care, items made from cowhide can last 20 to over 50 years! That's amazing! What other garment would you own that could last that long?!

Cowhide can be dyed in many different colors and have different finishes. (See below for the different finishes) The only disadvantage to having outerwear made of cowhide is that it can be quite heavy. Plus, over time, the porous nature of leather can accumulate dirt which will make it "gain weight". The good news is that if you send it to a trusted leather cleaner, this can be remedied.

Lambskin:
Lambskin is considered the "cream of the leather world". When you feel it, the first thing that will come to your mind is how buttery soft it feels. Because of this, it's one of the most popular skins for garments as well as outerwear.

Lambskin can be dyed in all different colors and comes in different weights. Unfortunately, because the skin is so delicate, this leather does tear a little easier than the others. Just remember to handle these items with care...be gentle.

Suede:
Suede starts out like regular leather, but during the tanning process, the top layer of the skin is scraped off or rubbed to reveal the soft, micro-hair of the skin below to produce a velvety nap. Suede can be dyed in all different colors.

Buffalo:
Buffalo hides don't actually come from the American Bison. They come from Water Buffalo, but the word, "Water" is actually dropped from the name so there aren't any negative associations with it. Buffalo hides are much stiffer and do not break in very well. You feel like you're "wearing armor" if buffalo hides are made into clothing, but it is an excellent material for luggage and bags.

Types of Hides:

Instead of only thinking of the hide as what animal it comes from, let's look at what layer of skin it is. Animals have many more layers of skin than humans do, so their skin is much thicker. Because of this, it is impractical to use any skin whole from an animal other than Deer or Goat.

Top Grain:
This is the outermost layer of skin. It generally has the pattern of grain you think of when thinking about leather. It's usually weathered and has a desirable appearance which makes it the most expensive layer. However, it's important to know that not all leather with a grain design is Top Grain.

Bottom Hides: (also sometimes called Bottom Grain)
This is the layer closest to the animal's muscle and fat tissue. This is very soft and somewhat grainy, but also has the most odor to it.

Split Hides:
This is the layers in between the Top and Bottom Grain. Almost all leathers are a bonded composite of Top and Split, Bottom and Split, or just Split Hides bonded together. This is not a problem as stitched seams eliminate any possibility of hide separation, which is extremely rare anyway.

Shearling:
These are natural lamb pelts that the leather side is often made into suede and worn on the outside. Some professionals classify this as a fur since the wool is still attached.

There are three (3) primary thickness levels of leather:
1.0 mm (or less) is used for fashion leathers and ladies wear
1.3 mm (1.3 to 1.5 average) is the most common for general riding protection
2.0 mm is only used in Naked Leather. Some will claim it is 2.0 mm, but if it's not Naked Leather, it's really just the 1.3 to 1.5 mm grade leather.

Finishes:

Glossy/Glazed:
This is the shiniest finish leather can have. The surface is polished to a high luster by pressurized glass or steel rollers. The advantage to having this finish for outerwear is that it is wind, water and dirt repellent. Nothing can hurt this finish except sharp objects such as the claws of a cat or dog, or a teething puppy. For some reason, pets love to chew on leather and claw them. Be sure to love your pet, but keep them away from your leathers!

Semi Glossy:
You could say that this is "the finish applied in moderation". It is the "happy medium" between having the glossy finish, and having no finish at all. This finish will allow the outerwear to take wind and some rain. It will repel water, but if you find yourself in a heavy downpour, expect it to absorb water.

Pearlized:
This is a spray-on finish that gives the leather a pearlized effect.

Naked:
There is no finish on the leather at all if it says "Naked Leather" on it. The hides have been tanned and dyed, but aren't finished as you would think of. Since the finishing process is used to hide the natural defects in the leather, Naked Leather hides must be hand selected for thickness, uniformity of grain and lack of defects. Naked Leather hides are not defect free, they just have fewer imperfections. Because they are unfinished, they are extremely soft to the touch and have that "broken in" look while they're still brand new. The problem with that is that the leather is not protected at all in any weather condition nature hands out.

Analine Finish:
Hides are drum-dyed for a soft, smooth feel. They are usually coated with protein, resin, or lacquer or some may be waxed.

Distressed:
This entails buffing the surface to create uneven coloration and markings and gives the leather that weathered look.

Embossed:
This is a print, commonly reptile such as crocodile, snake or alligator...other times ostrich or other patterns. The pattern is then applied using heat, pressed onto the surface.

Patent:
This leather is heavily finished to give a high lustrous, baked-enamel type of appearance.

Nubuck:
The Top Grain is buffed to a very fine nap that appears smoother than suede on this finish.

Conditioning Your Leather:

If you're out in hot sunny conditions, or end up caught in the rain, you will need to condition your leather several times during the season. You should be able to tell that it's time to condition when your leather feels dry.

Did you know that rain actually DRIES OUT leathers because when the rain evaporates from the leather, it will pull moisture away from the skin? It's recommended that once your leather is dry (if you do get caught in a rainstorm), you will need to condition it.

When leather items are wet, remove any dirt, mud or other stains with a leather cleaning product, then condition the leather while the pores are still fully responsive. Then, let your leather dry in a well-ventilated area, away from heat. Don't worry if your leather stiffens slightly after drying. This is normal and your leather items should soften again after wear.

Many people think that mink oil is best to use to condition and/or waterproof their leather. Actually, this is NOT true. Mink oil will actually clog the pores of the leather creating a barrier. Mink oil will make it waterproof, but it will also eventually dry out your leather. This happens because the pores are clogged and can't get any moisture. Your leather may also end up having a whitish haze to it. The reason for this is that the mink oil solidifies in cold weather. The bottom line is that it's much wiser to use a conditioner that is specifically designed for quality leather.

Leather naturally repels water but if you want additional protection, look for an environmentally friendly repellent product that will prevent the absorption of water and body oils. It's best to avoid silicone-based repellents which retard leather's ability to "breathe".

Cleaning:

To clean your leather items, make sure to choose a cleaner that will help preserve the natural lubricating oils instead of stripping them. As an example, some people think saddle soap is a good leather cleaner; after all, it's meant to be a cleaner and protector against moisture. On the contrary! Saddle soap will only strip the leather of the oils!

The leather cleaner you choose should never leave any greasy residue behind. That residue will make the leather susceptible to bacteria and could break down the stitching on your item. Before you apply anything to your leather, be sure to test it in a hidden area first to be sure it's colorfast.

Never use...Saddle soap, abrasive cleanser, soap, furniture polish oil, varnish or ammonia water, or any solvents or harsh chemicals.

Be sure to choose products intended for your item and carefully read and follow the instructions for best results. With a slightly dampened cloth, remove any cleaning product from the stitches. There are brushes available on the market to make this easier and more thorough.

For Suede Leather items, a brush will raise the nap and remove dust and dirt. New suedes are subject to "crocking" which means suede dust could rub off on hands and clothes. This can be minimized by rubbing any new suede vigorously with a terry cloth towel.

If suede gets wet or spotted by the rain, empty the item, stuff it with tissue and let it dry at room temperature. Avoid putting it near heat as this will dry it out too much. After your suede dries, brushing it vigorously with a white terry cloth towel will restore its appearance. (Using a WHITE terry cloth towel will prevent any colors from the towel to bleed onto your leather items.)

ALWAYS, carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions for use, before attempting to use any leather cleaner.

For best results on cleaning your leather items, or if you're unsure about doing it yourself, seek a professional cleaning establishment skilled and familiar in the cleaning of quality leather products.

General Care:

In winter, immediately remove salt deposits from garments by sponging with clear water and then following with a conditioner to restore flexibility. If the garment is suede, brush it with a white terry cloth towel to restore its look. (Using a WHITE terry cloth towel will prevent any colors from the towel to bleed onto your leather items).

Always avoid very humid or very dry environments as well as direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will dry out your leather. Obviously, most leather items are going to get some direct sunlight, but the more you can limit it the better. For example, don't leave your leather items in your car on a hot day. Instead, try putting something on top of them or storing them in your trunk.

Do not use waxes, silicone products or anything else on your leather items that will stop the leather's ability to breathe.

Wrinkles should hang out on their own. If necessary, you can iron the item on the rayon setting, but be sure to use some heavy brown wrapping paper (or a brown paper grocery bag without any writing on it) as a pressing cloth on the right side of the garment and iron. It's important to remember to iron quickly and use a light hand to prevent shine and overheating. Wrinkles should come right out. As always, when doing something at home, test on a small, inconspicuous area first.

Perfumes, hair spray and your natural body oils are a few of the things that could, over time, discolor or damage your leather. Avoid spraying your perfumes or hairspray while wearing your leather garment. DO NOT apply any pins as they will make small holes that could eventually turn into large holes. Also, avoid tape and pressure-sensitive labels (the stick-on type) as the gummy residue left behind by these can stain or ruin the finish on your leather.

Zippers and snaps need care too. Brass and Aluminum require minor lubrication semi-annually. Any DRY lubricant, such as silicone, may be used. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.

Storage:

Always make sure to hang your leather garments on wide or padded hangers to maintain their shape. Don't load the pockets with heavy or bulky items, this could tear the seams. Pockets should be empty during storage.

When storing leather handbags, purses, luggage, etc., stuff them with tissue to help retain their shape. Then, to keep them from sticking together when storing, try placing each in a flannel bag or a pillowcase.

NEVER store any of your leather goods in plastic or other non-breathable covers. This will cause your leather to become dry. It can also encourage the growth of mildew and bacteria that will ruin your leather.

Always store your leather in a cool, dry place away from heat. If your leather item is a garment, it can be stored in a BREATHABLE bag. Examples of this would be to store your leather in a cotton garment bag or hang your garments as usual and drape a white cotton towel, sheet, or even a pillowcase, over the shoulders to protect it from dust.